Friday, June 08, 2012

A Nave in Nurio

So, continuing  on our drive that we started last week. After leaving Pomacuarán, driving for less than ten kilometers we roll quietly into Nurio. The sign at the entrance to town is the only street sign there, as everyone in town already knows where everything is, and rarely does anyone else stop. Those that drive through truly do not know what they are missing.

nurio sign

The somewhat colorful entrance to Nurio!

Luckily it only takes a question or two of the locals to determine the location of the church. While it didn’t happen in this case, I have often found getting directions on the ground from locals in Mexico can be highly entertaining. It seems that culture is such that they don’t want to disappoint, so even if they don’t know what the appropriate directions are , they will come up with some for you anyway! In cases like this it is often helpful to ask a few people and see if there is a consensus of option. I admit I have often been tempted to pull up to a group of people in some out of the way village and ask if I am headed in the right direction for Acapulco!

c3 B

Templo de Santiago Apóstol in  Nurio


The church sits behind one of the ubiquitous fig trees that seem so popular in so many of the town squares here. It is  more massive and weightier than the painted churches in Pomacuarán and Tupataro, significantly more imposing, a deep dusty peach color with streamers trailing out from the window above the door.

church entry S

Rich Colors and Gold Leaf

The entrance, with deep  colors, make Nurio stand out from the other painted ceiling churches in the state. The rich enameled paint  and the gold leaf make the clear statement that this is a step beyond the typical folk art of the region.

paint detail

Ceiling Detail

As we progress into the church, we can see that this is not just another day in Nurio, but a fiesta day, probably with the word “Saint” in the title. Elegant fabric drapes down from the ceiling to the sides of the church, with flowers everywhere including a mosaic of flower petals and other foliage running down the aisle in the center of the church. I am assuming that they don’t put this sort of show on for every visitor. but I could be wrong.

Nurio Nave b

The Nave, All Dressed Up

Below is the photo I took of the sign by the church, with details in Spanish, English and Purépecha dating the painting in the church to 1639. Hey, if you have no idea what the difference is between a nave and a narthex, then check out this website for handy reference that helped explain some of the details for me.


Dan in NC said...

A plain outside, hiding an absolute jewel inside. Works for both buildings, and people... Great post..
Dan in NC

Todd said...

Very true!




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