Parícutin

When I was a kid, we had a set of children's encyclopedias. Very colorful, well illustrated.
Volume 12 of Golden Book Encyclopedia covered “Paricutin to Quicksand”. I can even remember an illustration of the farmer working in the field with the volcano beginning to poke out of the ground behind him. It was active from 1943-1952.

Paricutin Volcano Cinder Cone

Little did I realize that decades later (next century actually!) I would be living just down the road from the volcano. So needless to say, this is a “must do” day trip!
After driving a little over 100 kilometers west from Patzcuaro we approach the village of Angahuan. This is our starting point for our trip to the lava fields. There waiting at the first topé (a speed bump, okay a speed bump on steroids!) will be a man waiting for visitors. Off to the side of the road you will see a few others and some horses. Consider this person your travel agent/salesman . He will rent you a horse and send a young guide with you. As I was wanting to visit the church in the village first, I continued on past the topé into the village. Not wanting to miss an opportunity, the intrepid “travel agent” hops onto his steed and chases us into town. While photographing the church, we come to terms and the ride is arranged. Be sure to have sturdy footwear on, and make sure you take some water.

Angahuan’s church

Here is my recommendation about hiring a horse. If it is rainy season, you REALY want to have a horse, otherwise you will be hiking through mud and muck (including organic contributions from the horses) until you get to the lava field. If it is not rainy season, rent a horse anyway. You can save your energy for climbing around at your destination, you will be especially glad on the trip back. Plus you get to contribute to the local economy. The pesos you leave will make a bigger impact to them than they will to you!

Me And My Horse

While you can take the day and ride up to the top of the cinder cone, my destination is the San Juan Parangaricutiro village church in the lava field. The entire village was destroyed by the lava, with only the church showing through to indicate the village was there. After about 45 minutes (depending on where in town you start) on horseback we approach the “base camp” a variety of little huts that dispense food, drinks (keep hydrated!) and the odd souvenir (mostly old photos).

San Juan Parangaricutiro’s Church

Hiking up from the concession area, you approach the church. The spire rising out of the lava like a hand from the grave in one of those old late night horror movies. The view in the photo above shows the church from about a the level of the second floor. It makes sense that as the church was the tallest building around that parts of it would survive the disaster. What is really unusual is what you find at the other end of the church, at the altar.

The Miraculous Altar

It seems that the lava, a wall of molten rock 20-30 feet high, approached the altar and decided to stop. Leaving the altar untouched while continuing on to destroy the rest of the town. For the devout, this was a powerful endorsement of their faith. Now, to this day, the faithful make pilgrimages to this altar to pray and commune.

Miraculous Mementos

From these pilgrimages there are left behind flowers, crosses, rosaries, and countless personal mementos. Pictures and items of the people they have come there to pray for, or perhaps tokens of those whose prayers were answered. It is important to remember, that for many , this is much more that an interesting tourist site, but a sacred expression of their faith.

Hmmmmm, Quesadillas!

After tiring of climbing around the site, a brief sojourn at the base camp is in order. A cold beer, and a few quesadillas really hit the spot, with hand made blue corn tortillas made from scratch. Yummm!

Then off to find the young fellow minding our horses for the ride back. All in all, a memorable afternoon.

Have you visited Paricutin? I would love to hear what you thought.
Leave your impressions in the comments, Thanks!

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The Church at Tupataro

Today we go exploring. Driving along a back road between Corazon and Cuanajo, know for its hand made furniture, we continue on to the little village of Tupataro.

The Quaint Plaza

Across from the small town plaza is the Church, with a stone cross at the entrance. Wandering in past the austere entrance, the church is very dark. Shortly, your eyes adjust to the dark and the first thing you notice is the retablo against the back wall, that's not real gold is it?

Templo del Señor Santiago

Then as your eyes travel up the wall you realize the ceiling is covered with paintings. Saints and sinners, Angels and demons, Last supper and maybe even a brunch or two.

Ceiling Detail

You will notice going in a sign that says photography is not permitted. But the caretaker is a very kind man, and if you ask nicely he will allow one picture, no flash, no tripod.



Now, what little I have come across on the internet and books talks about the church being from the 17 hundreds, but the caretaker was telling me the building dates back to the 15 hundreds, but all the artwork dates from the latter date. The federal institute for anthropology and history arranged for the ceiling to be restore in the 80's and 90's by local artist Enrique Luft.

Pyramids of San Felipe Los Alzati

After leaving Tlal, we headed south to towards the little village of San Felipe Los Alzati, just north of Zitacuaro. If you keep your eyes peeled, you might catch a glimpse of well known cook book author, Diana Kennedy, who lives in the region.


About 2 kilometres outside the village we reach the ruins. Entering from the rear, you pass a number of petroglyphs that are displayed along a pathway leading to stone steps.

Stairway to .......

WOW!

After climbing the stairs you, you enter between 2 structures

Now, it is hard to get a sense of scale in this picture, but trust me, it's BIG!
Climbing to the top you get a breath taking view of the valley. I don't think there is anywhere else in the world with as many shades of green as the Michoacan countryside in the summer.

Valley View

To the right of the picture above, you can see some of the steps for the other pyramid. There is a sort of plaza between the two. It gives the impression of being the base where the pyramids were built

The Base?

No, there's more!

But, if you look over the edge, you see that this is just a platform on a much bigger structure, that is only partially restored. I can only imagine what it would look like, with the entire site restored. Hopeful that will happen soon.

Now I am in a "ruins" mood, So in the next month or so, I will make sure I do postings on the sites that are a little closer to home. There are 3 of them within about 25 kilometres of Patzcauro, as the crow flies. So, keep watching!